The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present.
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress presents the development of research in fashion and dress history from 1800 to the present, from a global perspective.
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Place / Publishing House: | Milton : : Taylor & Francis Group,, 2023. {copy}2024. |
Year of Publication: | 2023 |
Edition: | 1st ed. |
Language: | English |
Series: | Routledge Histories Series
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Physical Description: | 1 online resource (577 pages) |
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Pouillard, Véronique. The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. 1st ed. Milton : Taylor & Francis Group, 2023. {copy}2024. 1 online resource (577 pages) text txt rdacontent computer c rdamedia online resource cr rdacarrier Routledge Histories Series Intro -- Half Title -- Series Page -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Contents -- Figures -- Contributors -- Introduction: Fashion Reinvention -- Historians and Fashion -- The Structure of the Book -- Alternative Readings -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part I: Manufacturing and Materiality -- 1. The Sewing Machine -- Introduction -- Plotting the Global Diffusion of the Consumer Sewing Machine -- The United States -- Great Britain and Ireland -- Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australasia -- The Diffusion of the Sewing Machine as a Consumer Good -- Diffusion and Income -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 2. The Production Chain: Fashion, Technology, and Globalization (1800-2022) -- The Industrialization of the Chain of Production -- From the Laboratory to the Globe -- New Challenges: Freedom and Environmental, Social, and Economic Sustainability -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex -- The Colorful World of William Henry Perkin -- The Carte de Nuance as a Design Tool -- The Rayon Age -- Test-Tube Fibers and the Midcentury Textile Revolution -- Toward a New History of Technology and Fashion -- Notes -- Selected Bibliography -- 4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric -- Inventing a Tradition -- Industrializing a Craft Technique: From Batik to Wax Print -- Introducing Wax Print to the West African Market -- A Shared Valuable Legacy -- A Growing and Diversified Market -- The Power of the Nana Benz and the Language of the Designs -- A Precious Expertise -- The Mirror of Changing Societies -- Europe as a Reference of Quality in Independent Africa -- The Decline of Lomé Market -- New Markets, New Names -- The Issues of the Global Consumer Society -- From Fabric to Clothing -- Mission Dress, Boubou, and Wrapper. The Rise of African Fashion Designers -- New Trends in Asian Prints -- Wax Print in the Western fashion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 5. Swedish Splendor Behind the Scenes -- The Father of Couture Intermediaires -- No. 7, rue de la Paix -- Augusta Lundin and the "French Method for Sewing -- The French Salon at Nordiska Kompaniet -- A Global Couture Brand -- From Paris to Västerås-A Postfordist Fashion Pioneer -- Risking Nothing at All -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 6. Mending and Repairing -- Introduction -- Finding Evidence of Mending -- The Stigma of Repaired Clothing -- Mending in the Nineteenth Century -- Sewing Manuals, Thriftiness, and Invisible Repairs: Mending in the Early Twentieth Century -- Make Do and Mend: Clothing Repair During WWII -- Cheap Fashion and the "Disappearance" of Mending -- Mending in the Twenty-First Century: A Re-Emergence of Repair -- The Aesthetics of Contemporary Mending -- The Social Politics of Repair -- Designing for Repair -- Concluding Comments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part II: The Politics of Fashion and Dress -- 7. National and Regional Dress -- Nineteenth-Century National and Regional Dress -- Nationalist Dress Expands into the Twentieth Century -- Transformation from Regional to Ethnic Dress: United States as an Example -- Marker of Dissonance, Political Stance, and Empowerment -- African Diaspora and Indigenous Dress as Identity -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 8. Between Benevolent Work and Militant Labor: Palestinian Embroidery in the Diaspora -- From Collecting to Manufacturing Embroidery -- Defining Embroidery, Claiming Heritage -- Embroidery as benevolent Work -- Embroidery as Militant Labor -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th- and 20th-Century Black American Fashion Designers -- Introduction: An Oversimplified History. Black Fashion before the Civil War -- Transitional Makers -- Gaining a Foothold on Seventh Avenue -- The 1980s and 1990s: Tracy Reese -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 10. Fashion and Feminism -- Introduction -- Early Struggles: Fashion as Imprisonment and/or Emancipation -- Feminist Fashion Scholarship -- Fashion: A Feminist and Solidarian Practice? -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Films -- 11. Fascism for Export: Fashion and Textiles in 1930s Italy -- Introduction -- The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 12. Fashion and Diplomacy -- Fashion's Multifaceted Influence in International Relations -- The Diplomatic Relevance of Fashion's Influence: The Case of Postwar France -- Operationalizing Fashion as an Instrument of Diplomatic Influence -- Fashion as Everything That Has to Do with Fashion -- Public Diplomacy: The State and Its Foreign Audience -- Conclusion -- Funding Acknowledgment -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Articles -- Chapters -- Unpublished Material -- Blogs, Newspapers and Magazines -- Official Documents -- Part III: Fashion as Business -- 13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender, and Artificial Intelligence -- Literature Review -- The Evolution of Fashion Forecasting -- Female Entrepreneurship: The Industry -- Digitalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion Forecasting -- Voices of the Fashion Forecasters -- Conclusions -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Appendix 1 List of Interviewees -- 14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform -- A Successful Business Model -- Cheap Yet Attractive Fashion, Increasingly More Internet-Based -- The Location of the Supply Chains -- Inditex, the Leader of Fast Fashion -- The Social and Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion -- Conclusions -- Notes -- References -- 15. Bangladesh Garment Industry -- Introduction. Inception of the Bangladesh RMG Industry -- Economic and Social Impact -- Labor Standard, Vulnerability of Workers, and Rana Plaza -- Challenges of Sustainability -- Accord-Alliance and Safety -- Squeezing Prices -- Impact of COVID-19 -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Books -- Articles, Chapters in Books, and Dissertations -- Newspapers and Magazines -- 16. Fashioning Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identities, an Exploration of Africa Fashion Week Nigeria -- Introduction -- Overview of the Nigerian Fashion System -- Fashion Week as a Diffusion Strategy -- Nigeria: Historical and Cultural Context -- Africa Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN) -- Narratives of Sustainability, Empowerment, and Climate Change -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, and Fashion Branding -- Introduction -- Fashion as Art -- Cultural Heritage as an Intangible Asset -- History and Brand -- Final Remarks -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, from International to Post-Colonial Contexts -- Introduction -- Innovation, Patenting, and Trademarking -- Copyrighting Fashion: High Authorship and Collective Lawsuits -- Intellectual Property Cases in Colonial Contexts -- When Designers Question Intellectual Property -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- The Independent -- Justia Trademarks -- Revue Juridique du Congo Belge -- 19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism -- Introduction -- Luxury Fashion and the Idea of Art and Craft -- The Value Maker -- Luxury Fashion Facing Media Power Activism -- Counterfeit and Creativity from a Historical Point of View -- Dethroning the Value of High Fashion -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Documentary -- Film -- Websites -- YouTube -- Part IV: The Body and the Self. 20. Sport from Mr and Mrs Andrews Circa 1750 to Dior x Air Jordan 1 -- Introduction: The Sartorial Sporting Moment -- Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 -- The Move to Mass Production of High-End Goods -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 21. Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 until Today: Codification, Gender, and Global Perspectives -- The Rise of Codified Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 to 1900 -- Mourning Dress for Men and the Simplification of Female Mourning Attire, 1900-1920 -- The Decline of Specific Mourning Attire in the Postwar Period -- Contemporary Mourning Practices in Black American Communities: The R.I.P. Shirt -- The Gender Politics of the Color Black: "Merry" Widows and Sexualized Mourning -- Imperialism, Colonialism, and Globalization: Mourning Dress Outside of Western Europe and North America -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 22. Men's Fashion 200822 -- From Courtier to City Gent -- Managing the Body -- Dangerous Dress -- Bohemianism -- Bucks of Elegance -- Wilde Dress -- Royals, Sport, Fashion, and War -- Bubble Up -- Battling Consumerism: Punk and Grunge -- Trickling Across: Androgyny and the 1960s -- The Warhol Effect -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Objects -- Websites -- 23. The Attractions of Underclothes -- High Victorian and Edwardian Underwear -- La Vie Parisienne -- The Case of Underpants -- Modern Society: The Fantasy and "Fetishism" of Underwear -- The Iconography of the Corset Advertisement -- The Eroticism of Lingerie -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Chapters -- Periodicals -- Interviews -- 24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media -- Introduction -- #DeGenderFashion -- The First Man on the Cover of US Vogue -- Role of Fashion as an Industry and as a Culture -- Conclusion -- Bio -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 25. Queer Style -- The Dandy and the Lionne -- The Early Twentieth Century -- After the Two World Wars. Feminism, Sexual Liberation, and F***king with Gender. The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress presents the development of research in fashion and dress history from 1800 to the present, from a global perspective. Description based on publisher supplied metadata and other sources. Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, Michigan : ProQuest Ebook Central, 2024. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest Ebook Central affiliated libraries. Electronic books. Dubé-Senécal, Vincent. Print version: Pouillard, Véronique The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present Milton : Taylor & Francis Group,c2023 9781032576732 ProQuest (Firm) https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/oeawat/detail.action?docID=30883076 Click to View |
language |
English |
format |
eBook |
author |
Pouillard, Véronique. |
spellingShingle |
Pouillard, Véronique. The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. Routledge Histories Series Intro -- Half Title -- Series Page -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Contents -- Figures -- Contributors -- Introduction: Fashion Reinvention -- Historians and Fashion -- The Structure of the Book -- Alternative Readings -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part I: Manufacturing and Materiality -- 1. The Sewing Machine -- Introduction -- Plotting the Global Diffusion of the Consumer Sewing Machine -- The United States -- Great Britain and Ireland -- Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australasia -- The Diffusion of the Sewing Machine as a Consumer Good -- Diffusion and Income -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 2. The Production Chain: Fashion, Technology, and Globalization (1800-2022) -- The Industrialization of the Chain of Production -- From the Laboratory to the Globe -- New Challenges: Freedom and Environmental, Social, and Economic Sustainability -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex -- The Colorful World of William Henry Perkin -- The Carte de Nuance as a Design Tool -- The Rayon Age -- Test-Tube Fibers and the Midcentury Textile Revolution -- Toward a New History of Technology and Fashion -- Notes -- Selected Bibliography -- 4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric -- Inventing a Tradition -- Industrializing a Craft Technique: From Batik to Wax Print -- Introducing Wax Print to the West African Market -- A Shared Valuable Legacy -- A Growing and Diversified Market -- The Power of the Nana Benz and the Language of the Designs -- A Precious Expertise -- The Mirror of Changing Societies -- Europe as a Reference of Quality in Independent Africa -- The Decline of Lomé Market -- New Markets, New Names -- The Issues of the Global Consumer Society -- From Fabric to Clothing -- Mission Dress, Boubou, and Wrapper. The Rise of African Fashion Designers -- New Trends in Asian Prints -- Wax Print in the Western fashion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 5. Swedish Splendor Behind the Scenes -- The Father of Couture Intermediaires -- No. 7, rue de la Paix -- Augusta Lundin and the "French Method for Sewing -- The French Salon at Nordiska Kompaniet -- A Global Couture Brand -- From Paris to Västerås-A Postfordist Fashion Pioneer -- Risking Nothing at All -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 6. Mending and Repairing -- Introduction -- Finding Evidence of Mending -- The Stigma of Repaired Clothing -- Mending in the Nineteenth Century -- Sewing Manuals, Thriftiness, and Invisible Repairs: Mending in the Early Twentieth Century -- Make Do and Mend: Clothing Repair During WWII -- Cheap Fashion and the "Disappearance" of Mending -- Mending in the Twenty-First Century: A Re-Emergence of Repair -- The Aesthetics of Contemporary Mending -- The Social Politics of Repair -- Designing for Repair -- Concluding Comments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part II: The Politics of Fashion and Dress -- 7. National and Regional Dress -- Nineteenth-Century National and Regional Dress -- Nationalist Dress Expands into the Twentieth Century -- Transformation from Regional to Ethnic Dress: United States as an Example -- Marker of Dissonance, Political Stance, and Empowerment -- African Diaspora and Indigenous Dress as Identity -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 8. Between Benevolent Work and Militant Labor: Palestinian Embroidery in the Diaspora -- From Collecting to Manufacturing Embroidery -- Defining Embroidery, Claiming Heritage -- Embroidery as benevolent Work -- Embroidery as Militant Labor -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th- and 20th-Century Black American Fashion Designers -- Introduction: An Oversimplified History. Black Fashion before the Civil War -- Transitional Makers -- Gaining a Foothold on Seventh Avenue -- The 1980s and 1990s: Tracy Reese -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 10. Fashion and Feminism -- Introduction -- Early Struggles: Fashion as Imprisonment and/or Emancipation -- Feminist Fashion Scholarship -- Fashion: A Feminist and Solidarian Practice? -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Films -- 11. Fascism for Export: Fashion and Textiles in 1930s Italy -- Introduction -- The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 12. Fashion and Diplomacy -- Fashion's Multifaceted Influence in International Relations -- The Diplomatic Relevance of Fashion's Influence: The Case of Postwar France -- Operationalizing Fashion as an Instrument of Diplomatic Influence -- Fashion as Everything That Has to Do with Fashion -- Public Diplomacy: The State and Its Foreign Audience -- Conclusion -- Funding Acknowledgment -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Articles -- Chapters -- Unpublished Material -- Blogs, Newspapers and Magazines -- Official Documents -- Part III: Fashion as Business -- 13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender, and Artificial Intelligence -- Literature Review -- The Evolution of Fashion Forecasting -- Female Entrepreneurship: The Industry -- Digitalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion Forecasting -- Voices of the Fashion Forecasters -- Conclusions -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Appendix 1 List of Interviewees -- 14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform -- A Successful Business Model -- Cheap Yet Attractive Fashion, Increasingly More Internet-Based -- The Location of the Supply Chains -- Inditex, the Leader of Fast Fashion -- The Social and Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion -- Conclusions -- Notes -- References -- 15. Bangladesh Garment Industry -- Introduction. Inception of the Bangladesh RMG Industry -- Economic and Social Impact -- Labor Standard, Vulnerability of Workers, and Rana Plaza -- Challenges of Sustainability -- Accord-Alliance and Safety -- Squeezing Prices -- Impact of COVID-19 -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Books -- Articles, Chapters in Books, and Dissertations -- Newspapers and Magazines -- 16. Fashioning Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identities, an Exploration of Africa Fashion Week Nigeria -- Introduction -- Overview of the Nigerian Fashion System -- Fashion Week as a Diffusion Strategy -- Nigeria: Historical and Cultural Context -- Africa Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN) -- Narratives of Sustainability, Empowerment, and Climate Change -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, and Fashion Branding -- Introduction -- Fashion as Art -- Cultural Heritage as an Intangible Asset -- History and Brand -- Final Remarks -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, from International to Post-Colonial Contexts -- Introduction -- Innovation, Patenting, and Trademarking -- Copyrighting Fashion: High Authorship and Collective Lawsuits -- Intellectual Property Cases in Colonial Contexts -- When Designers Question Intellectual Property -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- The Independent -- Justia Trademarks -- Revue Juridique du Congo Belge -- 19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism -- Introduction -- Luxury Fashion and the Idea of Art and Craft -- The Value Maker -- Luxury Fashion Facing Media Power Activism -- Counterfeit and Creativity from a Historical Point of View -- Dethroning the Value of High Fashion -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Documentary -- Film -- Websites -- YouTube -- Part IV: The Body and the Self. 20. Sport from Mr and Mrs Andrews Circa 1750 to Dior x Air Jordan 1 -- Introduction: The Sartorial Sporting Moment -- Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 -- The Move to Mass Production of High-End Goods -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 21. Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 until Today: Codification, Gender, and Global Perspectives -- The Rise of Codified Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 to 1900 -- Mourning Dress for Men and the Simplification of Female Mourning Attire, 1900-1920 -- The Decline of Specific Mourning Attire in the Postwar Period -- Contemporary Mourning Practices in Black American Communities: The R.I.P. Shirt -- The Gender Politics of the Color Black: "Merry" Widows and Sexualized Mourning -- Imperialism, Colonialism, and Globalization: Mourning Dress Outside of Western Europe and North America -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 22. Men's Fashion 200822 -- From Courtier to City Gent -- Managing the Body -- Dangerous Dress -- Bohemianism -- Bucks of Elegance -- Wilde Dress -- Royals, Sport, Fashion, and War -- Bubble Up -- Battling Consumerism: Punk and Grunge -- Trickling Across: Androgyny and the 1960s -- The Warhol Effect -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Objects -- Websites -- 23. The Attractions of Underclothes -- High Victorian and Edwardian Underwear -- La Vie Parisienne -- The Case of Underpants -- Modern Society: The Fantasy and "Fetishism" of Underwear -- The Iconography of the Corset Advertisement -- The Eroticism of Lingerie -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Chapters -- Periodicals -- Interviews -- 24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media -- Introduction -- #DeGenderFashion -- The First Man on the Cover of US Vogue -- Role of Fashion as an Industry and as a Culture -- Conclusion -- Bio -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 25. Queer Style -- The Dandy and the Lionne -- The Early Twentieth Century -- After the Two World Wars. Feminism, Sexual Liberation, and F***king with Gender. |
author_facet |
Pouillard, Véronique. Dubé-Senécal, Vincent. |
author_variant |
v p vp |
author2 |
Dubé-Senécal, Vincent. |
author2_variant |
v d s vds |
author2_role |
TeilnehmendeR |
author_sort |
Pouillard, Véronique. |
title |
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. |
title_full |
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. |
title_fullStr |
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. |
title_full_unstemmed |
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. |
title_auth |
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. |
title_new |
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. |
title_sort |
the routledge history of fashion and dress, 1800 to the present. |
series |
Routledge Histories Series |
series2 |
Routledge Histories Series |
publisher |
Taylor & Francis Group, |
publishDate |
2023 |
physical |
1 online resource (577 pages) |
edition |
1st ed. |
contents |
Intro -- Half Title -- Series Page -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Contents -- Figures -- Contributors -- Introduction: Fashion Reinvention -- Historians and Fashion -- The Structure of the Book -- Alternative Readings -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part I: Manufacturing and Materiality -- 1. The Sewing Machine -- Introduction -- Plotting the Global Diffusion of the Consumer Sewing Machine -- The United States -- Great Britain and Ireland -- Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australasia -- The Diffusion of the Sewing Machine as a Consumer Good -- Diffusion and Income -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 2. The Production Chain: Fashion, Technology, and Globalization (1800-2022) -- The Industrialization of the Chain of Production -- From the Laboratory to the Globe -- New Challenges: Freedom and Environmental, Social, and Economic Sustainability -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex -- The Colorful World of William Henry Perkin -- The Carte de Nuance as a Design Tool -- The Rayon Age -- Test-Tube Fibers and the Midcentury Textile Revolution -- Toward a New History of Technology and Fashion -- Notes -- Selected Bibliography -- 4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric -- Inventing a Tradition -- Industrializing a Craft Technique: From Batik to Wax Print -- Introducing Wax Print to the West African Market -- A Shared Valuable Legacy -- A Growing and Diversified Market -- The Power of the Nana Benz and the Language of the Designs -- A Precious Expertise -- The Mirror of Changing Societies -- Europe as a Reference of Quality in Independent Africa -- The Decline of Lomé Market -- New Markets, New Names -- The Issues of the Global Consumer Society -- From Fabric to Clothing -- Mission Dress, Boubou, and Wrapper. The Rise of African Fashion Designers -- New Trends in Asian Prints -- Wax Print in the Western fashion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 5. Swedish Splendor Behind the Scenes -- The Father of Couture Intermediaires -- No. 7, rue de la Paix -- Augusta Lundin and the "French Method for Sewing -- The French Salon at Nordiska Kompaniet -- A Global Couture Brand -- From Paris to Västerås-A Postfordist Fashion Pioneer -- Risking Nothing at All -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 6. Mending and Repairing -- Introduction -- Finding Evidence of Mending -- The Stigma of Repaired Clothing -- Mending in the Nineteenth Century -- Sewing Manuals, Thriftiness, and Invisible Repairs: Mending in the Early Twentieth Century -- Make Do and Mend: Clothing Repair During WWII -- Cheap Fashion and the "Disappearance" of Mending -- Mending in the Twenty-First Century: A Re-Emergence of Repair -- The Aesthetics of Contemporary Mending -- The Social Politics of Repair -- Designing for Repair -- Concluding Comments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part II: The Politics of Fashion and Dress -- 7. National and Regional Dress -- Nineteenth-Century National and Regional Dress -- Nationalist Dress Expands into the Twentieth Century -- Transformation from Regional to Ethnic Dress: United States as an Example -- Marker of Dissonance, Political Stance, and Empowerment -- African Diaspora and Indigenous Dress as Identity -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 8. Between Benevolent Work and Militant Labor: Palestinian Embroidery in the Diaspora -- From Collecting to Manufacturing Embroidery -- Defining Embroidery, Claiming Heritage -- Embroidery as benevolent Work -- Embroidery as Militant Labor -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th- and 20th-Century Black American Fashion Designers -- Introduction: An Oversimplified History. Black Fashion before the Civil War -- Transitional Makers -- Gaining a Foothold on Seventh Avenue -- The 1980s and 1990s: Tracy Reese -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 10. Fashion and Feminism -- Introduction -- Early Struggles: Fashion as Imprisonment and/or Emancipation -- Feminist Fashion Scholarship -- Fashion: A Feminist and Solidarian Practice? -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Films -- 11. Fascism for Export: Fashion and Textiles in 1930s Italy -- Introduction -- The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 12. Fashion and Diplomacy -- Fashion's Multifaceted Influence in International Relations -- The Diplomatic Relevance of Fashion's Influence: The Case of Postwar France -- Operationalizing Fashion as an Instrument of Diplomatic Influence -- Fashion as Everything That Has to Do with Fashion -- Public Diplomacy: The State and Its Foreign Audience -- Conclusion -- Funding Acknowledgment -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Articles -- Chapters -- Unpublished Material -- Blogs, Newspapers and Magazines -- Official Documents -- Part III: Fashion as Business -- 13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender, and Artificial Intelligence -- Literature Review -- The Evolution of Fashion Forecasting -- Female Entrepreneurship: The Industry -- Digitalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion Forecasting -- Voices of the Fashion Forecasters -- Conclusions -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Appendix 1 List of Interviewees -- 14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform -- A Successful Business Model -- Cheap Yet Attractive Fashion, Increasingly More Internet-Based -- The Location of the Supply Chains -- Inditex, the Leader of Fast Fashion -- The Social and Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion -- Conclusions -- Notes -- References -- 15. Bangladesh Garment Industry -- Introduction. Inception of the Bangladesh RMG Industry -- Economic and Social Impact -- Labor Standard, Vulnerability of Workers, and Rana Plaza -- Challenges of Sustainability -- Accord-Alliance and Safety -- Squeezing Prices -- Impact of COVID-19 -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Books -- Articles, Chapters in Books, and Dissertations -- Newspapers and Magazines -- 16. Fashioning Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identities, an Exploration of Africa Fashion Week Nigeria -- Introduction -- Overview of the Nigerian Fashion System -- Fashion Week as a Diffusion Strategy -- Nigeria: Historical and Cultural Context -- Africa Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN) -- Narratives of Sustainability, Empowerment, and Climate Change -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, and Fashion Branding -- Introduction -- Fashion as Art -- Cultural Heritage as an Intangible Asset -- History and Brand -- Final Remarks -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, from International to Post-Colonial Contexts -- Introduction -- Innovation, Patenting, and Trademarking -- Copyrighting Fashion: High Authorship and Collective Lawsuits -- Intellectual Property Cases in Colonial Contexts -- When Designers Question Intellectual Property -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- The Independent -- Justia Trademarks -- Revue Juridique du Congo Belge -- 19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism -- Introduction -- Luxury Fashion and the Idea of Art and Craft -- The Value Maker -- Luxury Fashion Facing Media Power Activism -- Counterfeit and Creativity from a Historical Point of View -- Dethroning the Value of High Fashion -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Documentary -- Film -- Websites -- YouTube -- Part IV: The Body and the Self. 20. Sport from Mr and Mrs Andrews Circa 1750 to Dior x Air Jordan 1 -- Introduction: The Sartorial Sporting Moment -- Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 -- The Move to Mass Production of High-End Goods -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 21. Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 until Today: Codification, Gender, and Global Perspectives -- The Rise of Codified Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 to 1900 -- Mourning Dress for Men and the Simplification of Female Mourning Attire, 1900-1920 -- The Decline of Specific Mourning Attire in the Postwar Period -- Contemporary Mourning Practices in Black American Communities: The R.I.P. Shirt -- The Gender Politics of the Color Black: "Merry" Widows and Sexualized Mourning -- Imperialism, Colonialism, and Globalization: Mourning Dress Outside of Western Europe and North America -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 22. Men's Fashion 200822 -- From Courtier to City Gent -- Managing the Body -- Dangerous Dress -- Bohemianism -- Bucks of Elegance -- Wilde Dress -- Royals, Sport, Fashion, and War -- Bubble Up -- Battling Consumerism: Punk and Grunge -- Trickling Across: Androgyny and the 1960s -- The Warhol Effect -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Objects -- Websites -- 23. The Attractions of Underclothes -- High Victorian and Edwardian Underwear -- La Vie Parisienne -- The Case of Underpants -- Modern Society: The Fantasy and "Fetishism" of Underwear -- The Iconography of the Corset Advertisement -- The Eroticism of Lingerie -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Chapters -- Periodicals -- Interviews -- 24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media -- Introduction -- #DeGenderFashion -- The First Man on the Cover of US Vogue -- Role of Fashion as an Industry and as a Culture -- Conclusion -- Bio -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 25. Queer Style -- The Dandy and the Lionne -- The Early Twentieth Century -- After the Two World Wars. Feminism, Sexual Liberation, and F***king with Gender. |
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<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><collection xmlns="http://www.loc.gov/MARC21/slim"><record><leader>11184nam a22004573i 4500</leader><controlfield tag="001">50030883076</controlfield><controlfield tag="003">MiAaPQ</controlfield><controlfield tag="005">20240229073851.0</controlfield><controlfield tag="006">m o d | </controlfield><controlfield tag="007">cr cnu||||||||</controlfield><controlfield tag="008">240229s2023 xx o ||||0 eng d</controlfield><datafield tag="020" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">9781000963427</subfield><subfield code="q">(electronic bk.)</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="020" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="z">9781032576732</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(MiAaPQ)50030883076</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(Au-PeEL)EBL30883076</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="040" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">MiAaPQ</subfield><subfield code="b">eng</subfield><subfield code="e">rda</subfield><subfield code="e">pn</subfield><subfield code="c">MiAaPQ</subfield><subfield code="d">MiAaPQ</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="100" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Pouillard, Véronique.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="245" ind1="1" ind2="4"><subfield code="a">The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="250" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">1st ed.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="264" ind1=" " ind2="1"><subfield code="a">Milton :</subfield><subfield code="b">Taylor & Francis Group,</subfield><subfield code="c">2023.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="264" ind1=" " ind2="4"><subfield code="c">{copy}2024.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="300" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">1 online resource (577 pages)</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="336" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">text</subfield><subfield code="b">txt</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacontent</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="337" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">computer</subfield><subfield code="b">c</subfield><subfield code="2">rdamedia</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="338" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">online resource</subfield><subfield code="b">cr</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacarrier</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="490" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Routledge Histories Series</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Intro -- Half Title -- Series Page -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Contents -- Figures -- Contributors -- Introduction: Fashion Reinvention -- Historians and Fashion -- The Structure of the Book -- Alternative Readings -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part I: Manufacturing and Materiality -- 1. The Sewing Machine -- Introduction -- Plotting the Global Diffusion of the Consumer Sewing Machine -- The United States -- Great Britain and Ireland -- Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australasia -- The Diffusion of the Sewing Machine as a Consumer Good -- Diffusion and Income -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 2. The Production Chain: Fashion, Technology, and Globalization (1800-2022) -- The Industrialization of the Chain of Production -- From the Laboratory to the Globe -- New Challenges: Freedom and Environmental, Social, and Economic Sustainability -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex -- The Colorful World of William Henry Perkin -- The Carte de Nuance as a Design Tool -- The Rayon Age -- Test-Tube Fibers and the Midcentury Textile Revolution -- Toward a New History of Technology and Fashion -- Notes -- Selected Bibliography -- 4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric -- Inventing a Tradition -- Industrializing a Craft Technique: From Batik to Wax Print -- Introducing Wax Print to the West African Market -- A Shared Valuable Legacy -- A Growing and Diversified Market -- The Power of the Nana Benz and the Language of the Designs -- A Precious Expertise -- The Mirror of Changing Societies -- Europe as a Reference of Quality in Independent Africa -- The Decline of Lomé Market -- New Markets, New Names -- The Issues of the Global Consumer Society -- From Fabric to Clothing -- Mission Dress, Boubou, and Wrapper.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">The Rise of African Fashion Designers -- New Trends in Asian Prints -- Wax Print in the Western fashion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 5. Swedish Splendor Behind the Scenes -- The Father of Couture Intermediaires -- No. 7, rue de la Paix -- Augusta Lundin and the "French Method for Sewing -- The French Salon at Nordiska Kompaniet -- A Global Couture Brand -- From Paris to Västerås-A Postfordist Fashion Pioneer -- Risking Nothing at All -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 6. Mending and Repairing -- Introduction -- Finding Evidence of Mending -- The Stigma of Repaired Clothing -- Mending in the Nineteenth Century -- Sewing Manuals, Thriftiness, and Invisible Repairs: Mending in the Early Twentieth Century -- Make Do and Mend: Clothing Repair During WWII -- Cheap Fashion and the "Disappearance" of Mending -- Mending in the Twenty-First Century: A Re-Emergence of Repair -- The Aesthetics of Contemporary Mending -- The Social Politics of Repair -- Designing for Repair -- Concluding Comments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part II: The Politics of Fashion and Dress -- 7. National and Regional Dress -- Nineteenth-Century National and Regional Dress -- Nationalist Dress Expands into the Twentieth Century -- Transformation from Regional to Ethnic Dress: United States as an Example -- Marker of Dissonance, Political Stance, and Empowerment -- African Diaspora and Indigenous Dress as Identity -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 8. Between Benevolent Work and Militant Labor: Palestinian Embroidery in the Diaspora -- From Collecting to Manufacturing Embroidery -- Defining Embroidery, Claiming Heritage -- Embroidery as benevolent Work -- Embroidery as Militant Labor -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th- and 20th-Century Black American Fashion Designers -- Introduction: An Oversimplified History.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Black Fashion before the Civil War -- Transitional Makers -- Gaining a Foothold on Seventh Avenue -- The 1980s and 1990s: Tracy Reese -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 10. Fashion and Feminism -- Introduction -- Early Struggles: Fashion as Imprisonment and/or Emancipation -- Feminist Fashion Scholarship -- Fashion: A Feminist and Solidarian Practice? -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Films -- 11. Fascism for Export: Fashion and Textiles in 1930s Italy -- Introduction -- The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 12. Fashion and Diplomacy -- Fashion's Multifaceted Influence in International Relations -- The Diplomatic Relevance of Fashion's Influence: The Case of Postwar France -- Operationalizing Fashion as an Instrument of Diplomatic Influence -- Fashion as Everything That Has to Do with Fashion -- Public Diplomacy: The State and Its Foreign Audience -- Conclusion -- Funding Acknowledgment -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Articles -- Chapters -- Unpublished Material -- Blogs, Newspapers and Magazines -- Official Documents -- Part III: Fashion as Business -- 13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender, and Artificial Intelligence -- Literature Review -- The Evolution of Fashion Forecasting -- Female Entrepreneurship: The Industry -- Digitalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion Forecasting -- Voices of the Fashion Forecasters -- Conclusions -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Appendix 1 List of Interviewees -- 14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform -- A Successful Business Model -- Cheap Yet Attractive Fashion, Increasingly More Internet-Based -- The Location of the Supply Chains -- Inditex, the Leader of Fast Fashion -- The Social and Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion -- Conclusions -- Notes -- References -- 15. Bangladesh Garment Industry -- Introduction.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Inception of the Bangladesh RMG Industry -- Economic and Social Impact -- Labor Standard, Vulnerability of Workers, and Rana Plaza -- Challenges of Sustainability -- Accord-Alliance and Safety -- Squeezing Prices -- Impact of COVID-19 -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Books -- Articles, Chapters in Books, and Dissertations -- Newspapers and Magazines -- 16. Fashioning Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identities, an Exploration of Africa Fashion Week Nigeria -- Introduction -- Overview of the Nigerian Fashion System -- Fashion Week as a Diffusion Strategy -- Nigeria: Historical and Cultural Context -- Africa Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN) -- Narratives of Sustainability, Empowerment, and Climate Change -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, and Fashion Branding -- Introduction -- Fashion as Art -- Cultural Heritage as an Intangible Asset -- History and Brand -- Final Remarks -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, from International to Post-Colonial Contexts -- Introduction -- Innovation, Patenting, and Trademarking -- Copyrighting Fashion: High Authorship and Collective Lawsuits -- Intellectual Property Cases in Colonial Contexts -- When Designers Question Intellectual Property -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- The Independent -- Justia Trademarks -- Revue Juridique du Congo Belge -- 19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism -- Introduction -- Luxury Fashion and the Idea of Art and Craft -- The Value Maker -- Luxury Fashion Facing Media Power Activism -- Counterfeit and Creativity from a Historical Point of View -- Dethroning the Value of High Fashion -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Documentary -- Film -- Websites -- YouTube -- Part IV: The Body and the Self.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">20. Sport from Mr and Mrs Andrews Circa 1750 to Dior x Air Jordan 1 -- Introduction: The Sartorial Sporting Moment -- Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 -- The Move to Mass Production of High-End Goods -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 21. Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 until Today: Codification, Gender, and Global Perspectives -- The Rise of Codified Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 to 1900 -- Mourning Dress for Men and the Simplification of Female Mourning Attire, 1900-1920 -- The Decline of Specific Mourning Attire in the Postwar Period -- Contemporary Mourning Practices in Black American Communities: The R.I.P. Shirt -- The Gender Politics of the Color Black: "Merry" Widows and Sexualized Mourning -- Imperialism, Colonialism, and Globalization: Mourning Dress Outside of Western Europe and North America -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 22. Men's Fashion 200822 -- From Courtier to City Gent -- Managing the Body -- Dangerous Dress -- Bohemianism -- Bucks of Elegance -- Wilde Dress -- Royals, Sport, Fashion, and War -- Bubble Up -- Battling Consumerism: Punk and Grunge -- Trickling Across: Androgyny and the 1960s -- The Warhol Effect -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Objects -- Websites -- 23. The Attractions of Underclothes -- High Victorian and Edwardian Underwear -- La Vie Parisienne -- The Case of Underpants -- Modern Society: The Fantasy and "Fetishism" of Underwear -- The Iconography of the Corset Advertisement -- The Eroticism of Lingerie -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Chapters -- Periodicals -- Interviews -- 24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media -- Introduction -- #DeGenderFashion -- The First Man on the Cover of US Vogue -- Role of Fashion as an Industry and as a Culture -- Conclusion -- Bio -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 25. Queer Style -- The Dandy and the Lionne -- The Early Twentieth Century -- After the Two World Wars.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Feminism, Sexual Liberation, and F***king with Gender.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="520" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress presents the development of research in fashion and dress history from 1800 to the present, from a global perspective.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="588" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Description based on publisher supplied metadata and other sources.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="590" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, Michigan : ProQuest Ebook Central, 2024. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest Ebook Central affiliated libraries. </subfield></datafield><datafield tag="655" ind1=" " ind2="4"><subfield code="a">Electronic books.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="700" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Dubé-Senécal, Vincent.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="776" ind1="0" ind2="8"><subfield code="i">Print version:</subfield><subfield code="a">Pouillard, Véronique</subfield><subfield code="t">The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present</subfield><subfield code="d">Milton : Taylor & Francis Group,c2023</subfield><subfield code="z">9781032576732</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="797" ind1="2" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ProQuest (Firm)</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="830" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Routledge Histories Series</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="0"><subfield code="u">https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/oeawat/detail.action?docID=30883076</subfield><subfield code="z">Click to View</subfield></datafield></record></collection> |