The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present.

• Superior document: Routledge Histories Series
• Author: Pouillard, Véronique.
• TeilnehmendeR: Dubé-Senécal, Vincent.
• Place / Publishing House: Milton : : Taylor & Francis Group,, 2023.; {copy}2024.
• Year of Publication: 2023
• Edition: 1st ed.
• Language: English
• Series: Routledge Histories Series
• Physical Description: 1 online resource (577 pages)

The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress presents the development of research in fashion and dress history from 1800 to the present, from a global perspective.

Table of Contents

Intro -- Half Title -- Series Page -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Contents -- Figures -- Contributors -- Introduction: Fashion Reinvention -- Historians and Fashion -- The Structure of the Book -- Alternative Readings -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part I: Manufacturing and Materiality -- 1. The Sewing Machine -- Introduction -- Plotting the Global Diffusion of the Consumer Sewing Machine -- The United States -- Great Britain and Ireland -- Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australasia -- The Diffusion of the Sewing Machine as a Consumer Good -- Diffusion and Income -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 2. The Production Chain: Fashion, Technology, and Globalization (1800-2022) -- The Industrialization of the Chain of Production -- From the Laboratory to the Globe -- New Challenges: Freedom and Environmental, Social, and Economic Sustainability -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex -- The Colorful World of William Henry Perkin -- The Carte de Nuance as a Design Tool -- The Rayon Age -- Test-Tube Fibers and the Midcentury Textile Revolution -- Toward a New History of Technology and Fashion -- Notes -- Selected Bibliography -- 4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric -- Inventing a Tradition -- Industrializing a Craft Technique: From Batik to Wax Print -- Introducing Wax Print to the West African Market -- A Shared Valuable Legacy -- A Growing and Diversified Market -- The Power of the Nana Benz and the Language of the Designs -- A Precious Expertise -- The Mirror of Changing Societies -- Europe as a Reference of Quality in Independent Africa -- The Decline of Lomé Market -- New Markets, New Names -- The Issues of the Global Consumer Society -- From Fabric to Clothing -- Mission Dress, Boubou, and Wrapper.

The Rise of African Fashion Designers -- New Trends in Asian Prints -- Wax Print in the Western fashion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 5. Swedish Splendor Behind the Scenes -- The Father of Couture Intermediaires -- No. 7, rue de la Paix -- Augusta Lundin and the "French Method for Sewing -- The French Salon at Nordiska Kompaniet -- A Global Couture Brand -- From Paris to Västerås-A Postfordist Fashion Pioneer -- Risking Nothing at All -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 6. Mending and Repairing -- Introduction -- Finding Evidence of Mending -- The Stigma of Repaired Clothing -- Mending in the Nineteenth Century -- Sewing Manuals, Thriftiness, and Invisible Repairs: Mending in the Early Twentieth Century -- Make Do and Mend: Clothing Repair During WWII -- Cheap Fashion and the "Disappearance" of Mending -- Mending in the Twenty-First Century: A Re-Emergence of Repair -- The Aesthetics of Contemporary Mending -- The Social Politics of Repair -- Designing for Repair -- Concluding Comments -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Part II: The Politics of Fashion and Dress -- 7. National and Regional Dress -- Nineteenth-Century National and Regional Dress -- Nationalist Dress Expands into the Twentieth Century -- Transformation from Regional to Ethnic Dress: United States as an Example -- Marker of Dissonance, Political Stance, and Empowerment -- African Diaspora and Indigenous Dress as Identity -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 8. Between Benevolent Work and Militant Labor: Palestinian Embroidery in the Diaspora -- From Collecting to Manufacturing Embroidery -- Defining Embroidery, Claiming Heritage -- Embroidery as benevolent Work -- Embroidery as Militant Labor -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th- and 20th-Century Black American Fashion Designers -- Introduction: An Oversimplified History.

Black Fashion before the Civil War -- Transitional Makers -- Gaining a Foothold on Seventh Avenue -- The 1980s and 1990s: Tracy Reese -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 10. Fashion and Feminism -- Introduction -- Early Struggles: Fashion as Imprisonment and/or Emancipation -- Feminist Fashion Scholarship -- Fashion: A Feminist and Solidarian Practice? -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Films -- 11. Fascism for Export: Fashion and Textiles in 1930s Italy -- Introduction -- The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 12. Fashion and Diplomacy -- Fashion's Multifaceted Influence in International Relations -- The Diplomatic Relevance of Fashion's Influence: The Case of Postwar France -- Operationalizing Fashion as an Instrument of Diplomatic Influence -- Fashion as Everything That Has to Do with Fashion -- Public Diplomacy: The State and Its Foreign Audience -- Conclusion -- Funding Acknowledgment -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Articles -- Chapters -- Unpublished Material -- Blogs, Newspapers and Magazines -- Official Documents -- Part III: Fashion as Business -- 13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender, and Artificial Intelligence -- Literature Review -- The Evolution of Fashion Forecasting -- Female Entrepreneurship: The Industry -- Digitalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion Forecasting -- Voices of the Fashion Forecasters -- Conclusions -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Appendix 1 List of Interviewees -- 14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform -- A Successful Business Model -- Cheap Yet Attractive Fashion, Increasingly More Internet-Based -- The Location of the Supply Chains -- Inditex, the Leader of Fast Fashion -- The Social and Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion -- Conclusions -- Notes -- References -- 15. Bangladesh Garment Industry -- Introduction.

Inception of the Bangladesh RMG Industry -- Economic and Social Impact -- Labor Standard, Vulnerability of Workers, and Rana Plaza -- Challenges of Sustainability -- Accord-Alliance and Safety -- Squeezing Prices -- Impact of COVID-19 -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Books -- Articles, Chapters in Books, and Dissertations -- Newspapers and Magazines -- 16. Fashioning Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identities, an Exploration of Africa Fashion Week Nigeria -- Introduction -- Overview of the Nigerian Fashion System -- Fashion Week as a Diffusion Strategy -- Nigeria: Historical and Cultural Context -- Africa Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN) -- Narratives of Sustainability, Empowerment, and Climate Change -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, and Fashion Branding -- Introduction -- Fashion as Art -- Cultural Heritage as an Intangible Asset -- History and Brand -- Final Remarks -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, from International to Post-Colonial Contexts -- Introduction -- Innovation, Patenting, and Trademarking -- Copyrighting Fashion: High Authorship and Collective Lawsuits -- Intellectual Property Cases in Colonial Contexts -- When Designers Question Intellectual Property -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- The Independent -- Justia Trademarks -- Revue Juridique du Congo Belge -- 19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism -- Introduction -- Luxury Fashion and the Idea of Art and Craft -- The Value Maker -- Luxury Fashion Facing Media Power Activism -- Counterfeit and Creativity from a Historical Point of View -- Dethroning the Value of High Fashion -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Documentary -- Film -- Websites -- YouTube -- Part IV: The Body and the Self.

20. Sport from Mr and Mrs Andrews Circa 1750 to Dior x Air Jordan 1 -- Introduction: The Sartorial Sporting Moment -- Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 -- The Move to Mass Production of High-End Goods -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 21. Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 until Today: Codification, Gender, and Global Perspectives -- The Rise of Codified Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 to 1900 -- Mourning Dress for Men and the Simplification of Female Mourning Attire, 1900-1920 -- The Decline of Specific Mourning Attire in the Postwar Period -- Contemporary Mourning Practices in Black American Communities: The R.I.P. Shirt -- The Gender Politics of the Color Black: "Merry" Widows and Sexualized Mourning -- Imperialism, Colonialism, and Globalization: Mourning Dress Outside of Western Europe and North America -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 22. Men's Fashion 200822 -- From Courtier to City Gent -- Managing the Body -- Dangerous Dress -- Bohemianism -- Bucks of Elegance -- Wilde Dress -- Royals, Sport, Fashion, and War -- Bubble Up -- Battling Consumerism: Punk and Grunge -- Trickling Across: Androgyny and the 1960s -- The Warhol Effect -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Objects -- Websites -- 23. The Attractions of Underclothes -- High Victorian and Edwardian Underwear -- La Vie Parisienne -- The Case of Underpants -- Modern Society: The Fantasy and "Fetishism" of Underwear -- The Iconography of the Corset Advertisement -- The Eroticism of Lingerie -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Books -- Chapters -- Periodicals -- Interviews -- 24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media -- Introduction -- #DeGenderFashion -- The First Man on the Cover of US Vogue -- Role of Fashion as an Industry and as a Culture -- Conclusion -- Bio -- Notes -- Bibliography -- 25. Queer Style -- The Dandy and the Lionne -- The Early Twentieth Century -- After the Two World Wars.

Feminism, Sexual Liberation, and F***king with Gender.