Fashion, society and the First World War : : international perspectives / / edited by Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, Sophie Kurkdjian.

• TeilnehmendeR: Bass-Krueger, Maude, 1985-; Edwards-Dujardin, Hayley,; Kurkdjian, Sophie,
• Place / Publishing House: London. England : : Bloomsbury Publishing,, 2021.
• Year of Publication: 2021
• Edition: 1st Edition.
• Language: English
• Physical Description: 1 online resource (288 pages).

"The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years, yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies between 1914 and 1918 has not yet been addressed. This collection fills the gap in the literature by examining the impact the Great War had on fashion, its industry, and civilians in a transnational context. With an international, thematic approach, the book discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through clothing and print culture. Fashion, Society and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation"-- Provided by publisher.

Table of Contents

I. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry -- 1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917 / Mary Lynn Stewart -- 2: Boué Sœurs, "Compelled by the War" / Waleria Dorogova -- 3: "Gladdening the hearts of warriors:" the relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in World War I / / Georgina Ripley -- 4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and Future / Birgit Haase -- 5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of Norine / Nele Bernheim -- II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries -- 6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I Paris / Emily Brayshaw -- 7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War I / Sara Hume -- 8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the War / Marguerite Coppens -- 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World War / Marta Kargól -- 10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti / Margherita Rosina -- III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks -- 11: "Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:" a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 / Amy de la Haye -- 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female Workwear / Jérémie Brucker -- 13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation's Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916 / Guillaume de Syon -- 14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during the First World War in France / Manuel Charpy -- IV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender -- 15: The Gentleman Turned "Enemy:" Men's Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918 / Zsolt Mészáros -- 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of War / Burcu Dogramaci -- 17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a "Moda Italiana," 1914-1918 / Enrica Morini -- 18: Le Flambeau's Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity? / Nigel Lezama -- 19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915 / Andréa Kollnitz -- Index.