Designing Knit Designers / / Martina Motta.

• VerfasserIn: Motta, Martina,
• Place / Publishing House: Mailand : : FrancoAngeli,, 2019.
• Year of Publication: 2019
• Language: English
• Physical Description: 1 online resource (232 pages)

Traditionally associated with craftmanship and manual work, knitwear seems a quite unusual subject of investigation for scientific research. This book places it as an integrative part of the industrial design culture where the dialogue between a productive system of excellence and the design discipl...

Table of Contents

• Knitwear design. A design discipline between manual tradition and advanced technology by Giovanni Maria Conti pag. 11
• 1. Introduction » 15
• 1. Knitwear design as a scientific discipline: a complexity to be addressed » 15
• 2. Experimental actions to teach knitwear design: a research strategy towards innovation » 17
• 2. Knitwear, really? » 20
• 1. The academic discourse » 21
• 1.1. Scientific research in design: the roots » 21
• 1.2. The discussion about fashion design » 22
• 1.3. A role for knitwear design among academic research » 24
• 2. Knitwear as an Italian industrial reality » 26
• 2.1. Introduction » 26
• 2.2. Culture » 28
• 2.3. Product-oriented creativity » 31
• 2.4. Territory and knowledge » 35
• 2.5. Small and specialized » 40
• 2.6. Is Italian knitwear still strong? The issue of competitiveness for SMEs » 44
• 3. Design education and knowledge transfer pag. 48
• 3.1. The root of design education: from art schools to integrated knowledge » 48
• 3.1.1. The Italian context: from self-made designers to structured study paths » 53
• 3.1.2. Between flexibility and specialisms: the Italian industrial designer » 54
• 3.1.3. University and companies: a long-debated relationship » 55
• 3.2. From designers to fashion designers » 58
• 3.2.1. The importance of the context » 58
• 3.2.2. Fashion design education » 61
• 3.2.3. A fashionable kind of complexity » 62
• 3.2.4. Industrial fashion designers as cultural mediators in the collective creativity system » 67
• 3.2.5. Designerly ways of knowing fashion » 70
• 4. Framing knitwear design » 72
• 4.1. Introduction » 72
• 4.2. A little explored research field » 73
• 4.3. Framing the role of designers in the peculiar complexity of knitwear design process » 78
• 4.3.1. Between garments and fabrics » 78
• 4.3.2. Between creativity and technique » 79
• 4.3.3. Between fashion and engineering » 80
• 4.3.4. The issue of communication: tools for knitwear designers » 82
• 4.3.5. Critical issues highlighted in the literature » 83
• 4.3.6. The issue of innovation » 85
• 4.4. Conclusion: what kind of perspective on knitwear design education? » 88
• 3. Crossing boundaries: from the knitwear industry to design universities and return pag. 90
• 1. Knitwear as an industrial system » 91
• 1.1. Who needs a knitwear designer? » 91
• 1.2. Knitwear design process: an overview » 92
• 1.2.1. Colour and trend research » 92
• 1.2.2. Yarns development and production » 93
• 1.2.3. Yarns trade fairs » 96
• 1.2.4. Research and creative design process » 98
• 1.2.5. Design of the collection » 99
• 1.2.6. Study of prototypes with design and pattern amendments » 107
• 1.2.7. Pre-production samples development, selling and consolidation of orders » 109
• 1.2.8. Production and quality control » 110
• 1.2.9. Distribution, press and PR » 111
• 1.2.10.Conclusions » 113
• 1.3. The needs of knitwear industry: interviews with professionals » 114
• 1.3.1. Critical issues as emergent needs » 115
• 2. Knitwear as a design discipline » 136
• 3. Conclusions » 141
• 4. Knitwear design education: a teaching framework » 142
• 1. A framework for knitwear design education » 143
• 1.1. To give an overview on the existing situation » 145
• 1.1.1. On knitwear history and contemporary scenarios » 145
• 1.1.2. On materials » 146
• 1.1.3. On material engineering » 146
• 1.1.4. On management and supply chain » 146
• 1.1.5. On the technical language of knitwear » 147
• 1.2. To show the technological possibilities » 147
• 1.2.1. Hand-knitting » 147
• 1.2.2. Machine-knitting pag. 148
• 1.2.3. Shaping » 148
• 1.2.4. Finishes » 149
• 1.2.5. Programming industrial machines » 149
• 1.2.6. Visits to companies and fairs » 149
• 1.3. To structure the design process » 150
• 1.3.1. Launch of the brief » 150
• 1.3.2. Market research, brand positioning, target profiling » 151
• 1.3.3. Mood and concept » 151
• 1.3.4. Sketches and collection architecture; research on yarns, textures and colours; stitches and structures development » 151
• 1.3.5. Prototyping » 152
• 1.3.6. Final presentation » 152
• 2. Framework application » 153
• 3. Findings » 161
• 3.1. Verify the design framework » 161
• 3.2. Verify the impact of each module on the others » 161
• 3.3. Modelling the activities on times, contexts and participant's target » 163
• 3.4. Experiment the added value of the involvement of a company in the teaching/learning experience » 163
• 5. University meets the industry: experimental actions » 167
• 1. Further perspectives on collaborative teaching in knitwear design » 168
• 2. Pilot actions » 170
• 2.1. Workshop with Ghioldi » 171
• 2.2. Workshop with Filoscozia » 178
• 2.3. DDM with MF1 » 184
• 2.4. BA Thesis development with Ghioldi » 195
• 3. Findings » 204
• 6. Results and further considerations pag. 212
• 1. Final outcomes and main results » 212
• 2. Complemented application of the outcomes in an integrated teaching strategy » 216
• 3. Findings and hypotheses of scalability » 216
• 4. Conclusions » 219
• Bibliography » 221.