Accessories to Modernity : : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / / Susan Hiner.
Accessories to Modernity explores the ways in which feminine fashion accessories, such as cashmere shawls, parasols, fans, and handbags, became essential instruments in the bourgeois idealization of womanhood in nineteenth-century France. Considering how these fashionable objects were portrayed in f...
Saved in:
Superior document: | Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter Penn Press eBook Package Complete Collection |
---|---|
VerfasserIn: | |
Place / Publishing House: | Philadelphia : : University of Pennsylvania Press, , [2011] ©2010 |
Year of Publication: | 2011 |
Language: | English |
Online Access: | |
Physical Description: | 1 online resource (296 p.) :; 30 illus. |
Tags: |
Add Tag
No Tags, Be the first to tag this record!
|
id |
9780812205336 |
---|---|
ctrlnum |
(DE-B1597)449389 (OCoLC)794700574 |
collection |
bib_alma |
record_format |
marc |
spelling |
Hiner, Susan, author. aut http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators/aut Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / Susan Hiner. Philadelphia : University of Pennsylvania Press, [2011] ©2010 1 online resource (296 p.) : 30 illus. text txt rdacontent computer c rdamedia online resource cr rdacarrier text file PDF rda Frontmatter -- Contents -- List of Illustrations -- Prologue -- 1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction -- 2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage -- 3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic -- 4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex -- 5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification -- 6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags -- Epilogue. The Feminine Accessory -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Index -- Acknowledgments restricted access http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_16ec online access with authorization star Accessories to Modernity explores the ways in which feminine fashion accessories, such as cashmere shawls, parasols, fans, and handbags, became essential instruments in the bourgeois idealization of womanhood in nineteenth-century France. Considering how these fashionable objects were portrayed in fashion journals and illustrations, as well as fiction, the book explores the histories and cultural weight of the objects themselves and offers fresh readings of works by Balzac, Flaubert, and Zola, some of the most widely read novels of the period.As social boundaries were becoming more and more fluid in the nineteenth century, one effort to impose order over the looming confusion came, in the case of women, through fashion, and the fashion accessory thus became an ever more crucial tool through which social distinction could be created, projected, and maintained. Looking through the lens of fashion, Susan Hiner explores the interplay of imperialist expansion and domestic rituals, the assertion of privilege in the face of increasing social mobility, gendering practices and their relation to social hierarchies, and the rise of commodity culture and woman's paradoxical status as both consumer and object within it.Through her close focus on these luxury objects, Hiner reframes the feminine fashion accessory as a key symbol of modernity that bridges the erotic and proper, the domestic and exotic, and mass production and the work of art while making a larger claim about the "accessory" status-in terms of both complicity and subordination-of bourgeois women in nineteenth-century France. Women were not simply passive bystanders but rather were themselves accessories to the work of modernity from which they were ostensibly excluded. Issued also in print. Mode of access: Internet via World Wide Web. In English. Description based on online resource; title from PDF title page (publisher's Web site, viewed 24. Apr 2022) Clothing and dress France History 19th century. Fashion France History 19th century. Women France History 19th century. Gender Studies. LITERARY CRITICISM / European / French. bisacsh Cultural Studies. Literature. Women's Studies. Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter Penn Press eBook Package Complete Collection 9783110413458 Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter Penn Press eBook-Package Literature 9783110413540 Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter University of Pennsylvania Backlist eBook-Package 2000-2013 9783110459548 print 9780812242591 https://doi.org/10.9783/9780812205336 https://www.degruyter.com/isbn/9780812205336 Cover https://www.degruyter.com/document/cover/isbn/9780812205336/original |
language |
English |
format |
eBook |
author |
Hiner, Susan, Hiner, Susan, |
spellingShingle |
Hiner, Susan, Hiner, Susan, Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / Frontmatter -- Contents -- List of Illustrations -- Prologue -- 1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction -- 2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage -- 3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic -- 4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex -- 5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification -- 6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags -- Epilogue. The Feminine Accessory -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Index -- Acknowledgments |
author_facet |
Hiner, Susan, Hiner, Susan, |
author_variant |
s h sh s h sh |
author_role |
VerfasserIn VerfasserIn |
author_sort |
Hiner, Susan, |
title |
Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / |
title_sub |
Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / |
title_full |
Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / Susan Hiner. |
title_fullStr |
Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / Susan Hiner. |
title_full_unstemmed |
Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / Susan Hiner. |
title_auth |
Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / |
title_alt |
Frontmatter -- Contents -- List of Illustrations -- Prologue -- 1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction -- 2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage -- 3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic -- 4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex -- 5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification -- 6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags -- Epilogue. The Feminine Accessory -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Index -- Acknowledgments |
title_new |
Accessories to Modernity : |
title_sort |
accessories to modernity : fashion and the feminine in nineteenth-century france / |
publisher |
University of Pennsylvania Press, |
publishDate |
2011 |
physical |
1 online resource (296 p.) : 30 illus. Issued also in print. |
contents |
Frontmatter -- Contents -- List of Illustrations -- Prologue -- 1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction -- 2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage -- 3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic -- 4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex -- 5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification -- 6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags -- Epilogue. The Feminine Accessory -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Index -- Acknowledgments |
isbn |
9780812205336 9783110413458 9783110413540 9783110459548 9780812242591 |
callnumber-first |
G - Geography, Anthropology, Recreation |
callnumber-subject |
GT - Manners and Customs |
callnumber-label |
GT871 |
callnumber-sort |
GT 3871 H56 42010 |
geographic_facet |
France |
era_facet |
19th century. |
url |
https://doi.org/10.9783/9780812205336 https://www.degruyter.com/isbn/9780812205336 https://www.degruyter.com/document/cover/isbn/9780812205336/original |
illustrated |
Illustrated |
dewey-hundreds |
300 - Social sciences |
dewey-tens |
390 - Customs, etiquette & folklore |
dewey-ones |
391 - Costume & personal appearance |
dewey-full |
391.00944/09034 |
dewey-sort |
3391.00944 49034 |
dewey-raw |
391.00944/09034 |
dewey-search |
391.00944/09034 |
doi_str_mv |
10.9783/9780812205336 |
oclc_num |
794700574 |
work_keys_str_mv |
AT hinersusan accessoriestomodernityfashionandthefeminineinnineteenthcenturyfrance |
status_str |
n |
ids_txt_mv |
(DE-B1597)449389 (OCoLC)794700574 |
carrierType_str_mv |
cr |
hierarchy_parent_title |
Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter Penn Press eBook Package Complete Collection Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter Penn Press eBook-Package Literature Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter University of Pennsylvania Backlist eBook-Package 2000-2013 |
is_hierarchy_title |
Accessories to Modernity : Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France / |
container_title |
Title is part of eBook package: De Gruyter Penn Press eBook Package Complete Collection |
_version_ |
1770176426095411200 |
fullrecord |
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><collection xmlns="http://www.loc.gov/MARC21/slim"><record><leader>05651nam a22008655i 4500</leader><controlfield tag="001">9780812205336</controlfield><controlfield tag="003">DE-B1597</controlfield><controlfield tag="005">20220424125308.0</controlfield><controlfield tag="006">m|||||o||d||||||||</controlfield><controlfield tag="007">cr || ||||||||</controlfield><controlfield tag="008">220424t20112010pau fo d z eng d</controlfield><datafield tag="019" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(OCoLC)1013946160</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="019" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(OCoLC)979748546</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="020" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">9780812205336</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="024" ind1="7" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">10.9783/9780812205336</subfield><subfield code="2">doi</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(DE-B1597)449389</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(OCoLC)794700574</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="040" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">DE-B1597</subfield><subfield code="b">eng</subfield><subfield code="c">DE-B1597</subfield><subfield code="e">rda</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="041" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">eng</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="044" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">pau</subfield><subfield code="c">US-PA</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="050" ind1=" " ind2="4"><subfield code="a">GT871</subfield><subfield code="b">.H56 2010</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="072" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">LIT004150</subfield><subfield code="2">bisacsh</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="082" ind1="0" ind2="4"><subfield code="a">391.00944/09034</subfield><subfield code="2">22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="100" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Hiner, Susan, </subfield><subfield code="e">author.</subfield><subfield code="4">aut</subfield><subfield code="4">http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators/aut</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="245" ind1="1" ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Accessories to Modernity :</subfield><subfield code="b">Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France /</subfield><subfield code="c">Susan Hiner.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="264" ind1=" " ind2="1"><subfield code="a">Philadelphia : </subfield><subfield code="b">University of Pennsylvania Press, </subfield><subfield code="c">[2011]</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="264" ind1=" " ind2="4"><subfield code="c">©2010</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="300" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">1 online resource (296 p.) :</subfield><subfield code="b">30 illus.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="336" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">text</subfield><subfield code="b">txt</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacontent</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="337" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">computer</subfield><subfield code="b">c</subfield><subfield code="2">rdamedia</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="338" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">online resource</subfield><subfield code="b">cr</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacarrier</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="347" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">text file</subfield><subfield code="b">PDF</subfield><subfield code="2">rda</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2="0"><subfield code="t">Frontmatter -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Contents -- </subfield><subfield code="t">List of Illustrations -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Prologue -- </subfield><subfield code="t">1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction -- </subfield><subfield code="t">2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage -- </subfield><subfield code="t">3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic -- </subfield><subfield code="t">4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex -- </subfield><subfield code="t">5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification -- </subfield><subfield code="t">6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Epilogue. The Feminine Accessory -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Notes -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Bibliography -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Index -- </subfield><subfield code="t">Acknowledgments</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="506" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">restricted access</subfield><subfield code="u">http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_16ec</subfield><subfield code="f">online access with authorization</subfield><subfield code="2">star</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="520" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Accessories to Modernity explores the ways in which feminine fashion accessories, such as cashmere shawls, parasols, fans, and handbags, became essential instruments in the bourgeois idealization of womanhood in nineteenth-century France. Considering how these fashionable objects were portrayed in fashion journals and illustrations, as well as fiction, the book explores the histories and cultural weight of the objects themselves and offers fresh readings of works by Balzac, Flaubert, and Zola, some of the most widely read novels of the period.As social boundaries were becoming more and more fluid in the nineteenth century, one effort to impose order over the looming confusion came, in the case of women, through fashion, and the fashion accessory thus became an ever more crucial tool through which social distinction could be created, projected, and maintained. Looking through the lens of fashion, Susan Hiner explores the interplay of imperialist expansion and domestic rituals, the assertion of privilege in the face of increasing social mobility, gendering practices and their relation to social hierarchies, and the rise of commodity culture and woman's paradoxical status as both consumer and object within it.Through her close focus on these luxury objects, Hiner reframes the feminine fashion accessory as a key symbol of modernity that bridges the erotic and proper, the domestic and exotic, and mass production and the work of art while making a larger claim about the "accessory" status-in terms of both complicity and subordination-of bourgeois women in nineteenth-century France. Women were not simply passive bystanders but rather were themselves accessories to the work of modernity from which they were ostensibly excluded.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="530" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Issued also in print.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="538" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Mode of access: Internet via World Wide Web.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="546" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">In English.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="588" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Description based on online resource; title from PDF title page (publisher's Web site, viewed 24. Apr 2022)</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Clothing and dress</subfield><subfield code="z">France</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="x">19th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Clothing and dress</subfield><subfield code="z">France</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="y">19th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Fashion</subfield><subfield code="z">France</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="x">19th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Fashion</subfield><subfield code="z">France</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="y">19th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Women</subfield><subfield code="z">France</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="x">19th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Women</subfield><subfield code="z">France</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="y">19th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="4"><subfield code="a">Gender Studies.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">LITERARY CRITICISM / European / French.</subfield><subfield code="2">bisacsh</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="653" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Cultural Studies.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="653" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Gender Studies.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="653" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Literature.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="653" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Women's Studies.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="773" ind1="0" ind2="8"><subfield code="i">Title is part of eBook package:</subfield><subfield code="d">De Gruyter</subfield><subfield code="t">Penn Press eBook Package Complete Collection</subfield><subfield code="z">9783110413458</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="773" ind1="0" ind2="8"><subfield code="i">Title is part of eBook package:</subfield><subfield code="d">De Gruyter</subfield><subfield code="t">Penn Press eBook-Package Literature</subfield><subfield code="z">9783110413540</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="773" ind1="0" ind2="8"><subfield code="i">Title is part of eBook package:</subfield><subfield code="d">De Gruyter</subfield><subfield code="t">University of Pennsylvania Backlist eBook-Package 2000-2013</subfield><subfield code="z">9783110459548</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="776" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="c">print</subfield><subfield code="z">9780812242591</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="0"><subfield code="u">https://doi.org/10.9783/9780812205336</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="0"><subfield code="u">https://www.degruyter.com/isbn/9780812205336</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="2"><subfield code="3">Cover</subfield><subfield code="u">https://www.degruyter.com/document/cover/isbn/9780812205336/original</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">978-3-11-041345-8 Penn Press eBook Package Complete Collection</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">978-3-11-041354-0 Penn Press eBook-Package Literature</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">978-3-11-045954-8 University of Pennsylvania Backlist eBook-Package 2000-2013</subfield><subfield code="c">2000</subfield><subfield code="d">2013</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_BACKALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_CL_LT</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_EBACKALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_EBKALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_ECL_LT</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_EEBKALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_ESSHALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_PPALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBA_SSHALL</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">GBV-deGruyter-alles</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">PDA11SSHE</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">PDA13ENGE</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">PDA17SSHEE</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">PDA5EBK</subfield></datafield></record></collection> |